“Paddle to the Sea” - Bold Coast Hante, July 2007
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| To the sea from Great Wass |
There is nothing more mysterious than the Canadian boundary waters running to the Atlantic through the great North Woods. These rivers drop to sea through the bold coast territory. Over their eddies, spruce and fir rustle tales of legends past. Our original people were the Passamaquoddy and Micmac Indians.
Glooscap
It is said that God-Man, Glooscap, came from the far away east in the time when forms were interchangeable with emptiness. The Viking poem goes:
Tell me ninthly, since thou art wise, wince the wind comes, that over Ocean passes, invisible to man. He is called Hraesuely, who at heaven’s End sits, a giant in eagle plumage. From his wings comes the wind. - Viking poem 980 AD
When Glooscap lived among men, he paddled to sea in his canoe with bow and arrows to kill seafowl. But there came a time when every day was so windy he could not go to sea at all. Then he said, "the great wind bird is doing this,” and he set out to find him.
Now wind-blower bird lives far to the North on a great rock at the end of sky. By waving his wings he creates the wind. Finally Glooscap paddles till he finds him. “Grandfather,” said Glooscap, “it is too much; you are creating gales and storms. Be easy and stop this.”
“I have been here,” the great bird said, “since the beginning of time. My voice was the first sound. I shall beat my wings any way I so choose.”
So Glooscap rose up in might to the clouds. He took up that giant bird like a duck and tied him all up, threw him over a bold coast chasm, and left.
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Our friends on the open water |
Now people could go out all day in their canoes for it was dead calm. It lasted weeks and months but then the people began to breathe badly and the waters became thick, green and stagnant. Nothing could move at all, it was all so thick. Glooscap thought about that great bird and went to see him. As he had left him, he found him. So raising him up, he put him back on his rock and untied one wing, with a little more respect. Since then the wind blows and we can paddle again.
On Bold Coast Hante, we are paddling Glooscap waters. It is likely that we will learn respect for this wind bird the Bald Eagle. It is sure that we too will be talking to him along with beaver, bear and loons. We will be voyaging the St. Croix River, a Canadian Heritage Wilderness river whose protection will allow us a rare experience, to camp and be in a real wilderness.
After our paddles have found the sea, our small group will leave their canoes and don the closed boat protection of sea kayaks. We will spend 3 days paddling among misty Maine coastal islands. If you have never been eye to eye with seals, you will be now. Our bays and rocky sea cliffs abound with these big dogs of the sea. They are friendly, courteous, and totally curious, popping up beside your kayak. “What’s up, you?”
Changing again to ever increasingly sea worthy vessels we will ride the Canadian ferry boats to amazing Gran Manan Island, home waters to whales and sardine fisheries. Gran Manan sits squarely in the Gulf Stream, affording true summer weather. Willa Cather chose Gran Manan as her summer residence where she wrote the famous My Antonia. Nestled fishing villages and bold coast 400 foot sea cliff trails make you understand why someone would want to live here forever.
From Gran Manan we spend another day at sea, whale and Puffin watching, stopping on Seal Island, an international bird preserve. Finally, we travel by ferry to Canada’s Campobello Island, home of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, visiting their home and hiking the island.
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Bound for Grand Manan |
In case you are wondering when Paddle has time to rest, let me tell you about your home base, “Long House Farm.” Here in Iroquois and in early settler tradition, lies your home between voyages. Here, too, after amazing meals in the Long House, which you will learn to cook on a woodstove, baking pies in primitive ovens and picking and jamming blue berries, you will settle into stories and coyote howls. (All night actually). The building and use of a sweat lodge crowns island solos.
So, Paddlers to the Sea, we welcome you to Bold Coast Hante journey. Right now we have a few spaces left, SIGN ON! July 15-August 3, 2007. Call for info 336-761-1040 or stop by the ENC or OA offices.
EXPECT TO LEARN SKILLS IN: |
EXPECT TO MEET: |
| Canoe Voyaging with Maine Guides | Lobster Fishermen |
| Sea Kayaking with Maine Guides | Maine Guides and Salmon Fly fishermen |
| Bird and North Woods Animal Lore | Salmon Naturalists |
| Salmon Federation Recovery | Off Grid Sustainable Farmers |
| Sustainable Off Grid Farming | Blueberry Farmers |
| Wood Stove Cookery | Farm Bakery folks |
| Blueberry Horticulture and Jamming | Folks engaging in organic and traditional |
| Whales and Sea Birds | waterfront activities |
| Native American Sweat Lodge | Down East Characters! ALL |
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